On the Cooking of Foods That Are Not Eaten Raw

An Analysis of Culinary Practices according to the Tratado Completo de Cozinha e de Copa (1904)

Abstract

O Tratado Completo de Cozinha e de Copa, written by Carlos Bento da Maia, is a seminal work that marked the dissemination of culinary knowledge throughout the first half of the 20th century. Despite the recognized importance of this book and its author in the panorama of Portuguese culinary literature, there have been few studies dedicated to it.

In this work, we reflect on Portuguese culinary practices in their historical dimension, focusing on the contributions of culinary literature and establishing relationships with the material and cultural aspects of food preparation. We present the results of a quantitative and qualitative analysis based on 490 recipes from the aforementioned book, supported by the assessments that Bento da Maia recorded in the section Sobre o cozinhado dos alimentos que se não comem crus. The characterization of the recipe collection, considering culinary methods and techniques, with special attention given to cooking and food preservation techniques, allowed an interpretation considering the chronology of the energy and technological transition of the early 1900s in Portugal, highlighting the role of these factors in the evolution of culinary practices.