Under the sign of saffron

Abstract

Saffron is a well-known flower in antiquity. Used as a culinary condiment; perfume; ingredient of medical preparations and fabric dye, the textual sources associated it preferably with the female world. However, we have also observed its presence among men, so the plant and its uses kept a polysemic value, that is the main object of our article. In this article we have studied the different meanings of saffron according to the subjects that use it: virgins, married women and men; and mainly through the dress obtained from its dye, the κροκωτός. Following structural analysis as methodology, we consulted the ancient texts to observe the way and reason why some young virgins dressed in saffron before getting married; the wives seduced their husbands with saffron dresses; or some men dressed up as women with the κροκωτός. It was possible, therefore, to see the meaning of this garment as a status marker between girls or married women; modest wives or hetaires; and virile or effeminate men; a value that would be articulated through the seduction, present in all the estates studied.